Whatever
your family calls it — sofa, settee, divan, davenport — it's a major
investment. To get the best sit for your buck, follow these five steps: They
take the "ouch" out of couch
Check
the Frame
A sturdy frame means a long-lasting sofa.
Soft wood, such as pine, is low-cost, but it may warp or wobble after five
years. Pricier hardwood (kiln-dried oak, ash, or beech, for example) is more
durable. Avoid frames made of particleboard, plastic, or metal; they may warp
and crack. Legs should be part of the frame or held on with screws or dowels
(pegs) — not with glue alone.
Tip: To test frame strength, lift one front corner or leg of the
sofa off the floor. By the time you've raised it six inches, the other front
leg should have risen too. If it's still touching the floor, the frame has too
much give; it's weak.
Ask
About Joinery
A frame with joints connected by any
of the following means is solidly constructed: wooden dowels, double wooden
dowels, wooden corner blocks (the tag might read corner blocks glued and
screwed), or metal screws and brackets. Staples or nails may be used for
extra reinforcement, but never buy a sofa that's held together solely by
staples, nails, or glue.
Tip: Ask your salesperson for written manufacturer information on
frame joinery.
Test
the Springs
Most sofas have sinuous, also called
serpentine, springs — preassembled units of snaking wire. They're nicely
supportive, but they can press on the frame or sag over time if the metal isn't
heavy. High-end sofas often come with "eight-way hand-tied springs."
They're comfy but expensive; some experts feel they're no better than
serpentines. Feel the springs through the upholstery — they should be close
together and firm. Sofas with no springs, just webbing or mesh, are
uncomfortable and flimsy.
Tip: Sit down firmly on a corner or outside edge of a sofa
you're considering. Squeaks and creaks suggest that springs are incorrectly
placed or hitting the frame.
Feel
Your Fillings
Polyurethane foam is a low-cost,
easy-care cushion filling. But the more durable, high-density type can feel
hard, and softer, low-density foam deteriorates more rapidly with constant use.
High-resilient (HR) foam is slightly more expensive but more comfortable and
long-lasting. Polyester fiber is also inexpensive, but it flattens quickly.
Goose- and duck-feather fillings are comfy, but they can clump. Top of the
line: goose down (the bird's soft undercoat) mixed with feathers. The combo is
yummily plump, expensive (about double the price of foam), and high
maintenance; cushions need frequent fluffing. A down-polyfiber blend is
cheaper, but it flattens fast.
Tip: Two good options that are comfortable and reasonably
priced: HR foam in a layer of down and conventional foam wrapped in polyester
batting.
Find
Tough Textiles
Sofas for everyday use need durable
fabric. Cotton and linen are winners (but watch out for loose weaves — they can
snag). Also terrific: synthetic microfiber, which can mimic most fabrics and is
stain resistant. Cotton and linen can be treated for stain resistance, but even
then they aren't as easy to clean, or as durable, says Kathleen Huddy, the GH
Research Institute's textiles, paper, and plastics director. Blends of natural
and synthetic fibers tend to pill within a year. Wool and leather are handsome
and strong but expensive. Silk is sleek but fragile. Fabrics with patterns
woven in tend to wear better than those with printed patterns.
Tip: Ask the store for a piece of fabric larger than the usual
swatch. Place it where the sofa will go. View it in natural and artificial
light — and see how much you still like it after a few days.
